October was a tough month though nothing big happened. Many thoughts about myself, about my work, about what am I actually doing here. Am I doing anything good? Do I actually support any improvement here? The most important conclusion I came to was most likely that I really have to slow down. I realized that people here are actually on another level and many of the issues which I tacitly understood was that people are able to break down work assignments into practical steps, prioritize them, plan their implementation, carry them out and follow up. Unfortunately this doesn’t happen. I don’t know whether this has to do with occupation as some people here assume or it is just another working culture. However, much more than I’d like to I have to really ask every day what would be the tasks for the day and whether the ones of yesterday have been accomplished. Then again I really have to restrain myself from doing it myself just because it would be faster…Anyway, we did a lot the past months and as soon as all results are there I’ll link them here.
During my rare time off I went hiking on Abraham’s path. Definitely a must for everyone who wants to enjoy the landscape and get an impression of the vegetation here. Four hours through the hills. Stunning views. An oasis. Bedouins. Wonderful. I also went to Wadi Quelt where I found natural springs, fishes in the ponds and the amazing feeling of walking barefoot in the water. No tourist destination so a great spot to relax.
Besides hiking, I also had my dear friend Ankie paying a visit which finally gave me the opportunity to drive down to the Dead Sea. It is really salty water, kind of oily even, and it makes you blind when getting it in your eyes, at least until you wash it out with normal water. I didn’t trust it in the beginning, carefully sliding in the water on the slimy mud but yes, one can float on the water. I was wondering about the empty houses which are several hundred metres from the shore but within the past 20 years the sea level lost some 25 metres!!!
Or just check the panorama from Kalia beach and look at the red ramp when turning to left.
There is no more water coming in from the Jordan river, the aquifers of the West Bank are emptied thanks to the strong Israeli pumps and there is a drought for the past five years. It’s not only me who is afraid of water being the next big issue on the way to a lasting peace agreement in the Middle East. Whereas an average Palestinian consumes 70 litres of water a day, an Israeli consumes 320 litres and an Israeli settler 369 litres. 80% of the groundwater of shared aquifers is taken by the Israelis. An A few years ago I dreamt about saving the Aral Lake but well, there is another precious natural wonder here whose destruction needs attention.
Since we are slowly sliding AGAIN into politics ;) I would also like to mention that I went back to Il-Halil/Hevron. This time, however, was different as I decided to join a tour of Breaking the Silence. I had heard of this group long before and honestly, my respect is growing and growing. Besides publishing testimonies of Israeli soldiers who serve(d) in the Palestinian territories including Operation Cast Lead or better known as the last Gaza war, Breaking the Silence offer tours to the West Bank. Most of them target Israelis to show them what is going on in the territories. The guide was very honest about their service, eviction of Palestinian families and the implementation of curfews. It is shocking to see that 13,000 Palestinians had to leave their houses, 1,800 shops were closed because 500 settlers wish to sleep in the Old Town...And I doubted whether there was a monument for the murderer Baruch Goldstein who killed 29 Palestinians in the Ibrahimi Mosque. Though there is no monument, the settlers build a grave for him, inscribing that his hands are innocent and his heart is pure. This is so unacceptable! It’s a shame! There is no excuse for violence on either side and honouring mass murderers is out of discussion.
I will join another tour with Breaking the Silence on 24 December 2009 to the South Hebron hills and I am so grateful that my mum will be there as well. Whoever else has the opportunity to go on a tour, be open enough to learn about this facet of Israeli politics and society as well.
To close with something positive, the holiday season has arrived!!!!! Eid Al-Adha (Muslim festival of sacrifice) is ongoing, Hanukkah (Jewish festival of lights will start 12 December), Western Christmas is on 24-26 December, Western New Year, Orthodox Christmas on 6 January, ... I am excited!!!
Finally the nativity scene in the right environment: under a palm tree
